Wednesday 20 August 2014

Tanami Desert

The Tanami Road is the shortest link between the Kimberley region and Alice Springs. It's a 1000 km long, straight and unsealed road through the Tanami desert. The drive is a bit boring, but we love camping in the red sand! 


Here we are having a drink, .....
 .... washing hair ....

... and cooking dinner.


 Every once in a while there is something to see: a carpet python,...

... wild camels ...

... and an Australian bustard.

Purnululu National Park (Bungle Bungle)



Purnululu is the aboriginal name for the layered sandstone formations. The name of the National Park has been recently changed because nobody seems to know why it was called Bungle Bungle in 1983, when it was "discovered" by a film crew. 
Only 20% of the park contains the famous bee-hive domes, the rest of the range is an equally beautiful maze of strange rock formations, red cliffs, narrow gorges and spinifex plains.
If anybody is interested, here is the reason for the two colours of the layers. The dark layers have a higher clay content and hold the moisture better. This allows them to support cyanobacteria growing on the surface and thus protecting the outer layer from erosion. The lighter coloured layers have less clay, are more porous and dry out quickly. Therefore, cyanobacteria cannot grow here, which leads to surface erosion and oxidisation of the iron.

By the way, the photo below has not been enhanced with photoshop. The landscape really is that colourful!






Cathedral gorge is a massive sandstone overhang underneath a waterfall. Imagine the force of the water digging out this cavity!

Echidna Chasm is very hard to photograph due to its size and contrast in light. Note the little blob standing in the middle - that's me. 

We did our longest one-day walk ever: 21.2 km to Piccaninny Gorge and back. After the first 5 km there is nobody else!


The "trail" was the dry creek bed, which comprised rock, gravel or sand.


Me, having a rest at Black Rock Pool (with very sore feet!).

The beautiful red cliffs of Piccaninny Gorge.

This was definitely on my bucket list: a helicopter flight over Purnululu. Again, the helicopter had no doors and it was a very windy day. What an amazing flight! Definitely one of the highlights of the trip! Below some of the beautiful patterns and colours of the rock formations.













Note the fishbone look of the road. The graders create dirt ditches off the road, so the water drains during the wet season.

Unfortunately the cane toad has arrived in WA! It was depressing to see the high number of toads and low numbers of quolls, goannas and snakes etc. in the eastern Kimberley compared to the western Kimberley, where the toad hasn't arrived yet (but is expected during the next wet season).
Between April and July 2014 visitors collected 40,000 cane toads on one campground in Purnululu!

Our campsite was regularly visited by chatty groups of double-barred finches.

This complicated structure was created by a bower bird. In NSW they collect blue things, up here they seem to like white.


Mitchell Plateau

The Mitchell Plateau is a 200km detour on a very bad road, but definitely worth the effort! The famous Mitchell Falls are just stunning! We decided to take a helicopter to get to the falls (6 minute ride) and then walk back in order to appreciate the falls from the air......

.... and from the ground.

They removed the doors of the helicopter! When it banked to the left I would have fallen out except for the seat belt. It was quite an adrenalin kick!

Below is a short video clip of the helicopter flight over the falls. I don't think it works on iPads though, sorry, computers only.

Unfortunately, this was our first overcast day in over two months! At least it wasn't too hot. Kirsten can be seen on the right, crossing the top of Big Mertens Falls.

As always, we spent some time climbing around cliffs and overhangs to look for Aboriginal rock art.

The paintings here are completely different from the ones we saw in the western Kimberley. The northern WA was densely populated by different Aboriginal clans.

The road continues north to the coast, as seen here from Warrender Hill. The condition of the road got so bad, however, that we decided to turn around (or was it just me?)

Another amazing place is the Munurru camping area on the King Edward River. How is this for a late afternoon swim?! 


I was fascinated by the rock formations around the waterfall - the result of seasonal flooding for thousands of years.


The flora was fascinating too, here a lovely colour arrangement.

This seems to be another species of carnivorous plant. The "glue" can be seen everywhere except on the flower and the plant was covered in little insects. Note how sticky it is below - it didn't want to let go of my finger!


Below are some more of the locals: