Niue is a raised coral atoll (261 square kilometres) located in the South Pacific Ocean between Samoa, Tonga and the Cook Islands. It features a rugged coastline with dramatic limestone cliffs, chasms and clear rock pools. Niue operates as a self-governing, parliamentary democracy, while New Zealand supports the island with defence and foreign affairs. The population is around 1,500 people living in 14 different villages. Alofi is the capital. Most of the population lives on the protected west-coast, since the east-coast is exposed to the trade winds. The only way to get to Niue is on a bi-weekly flight with Air New Zealand from Auckland. Because the flight crosses the date line, Kirsten got two birthdays this year!
We stayed for a week at the gorgeous Matavai Resort.
Our room had an amazing view over the cliff edge. Every night we were serenaded with the sound of breaking waves, the crowing of roosters and the chirp of our in-house Asian gecko.
We rented bicycles for the entire week, mounted our own racks and strapped our snorkelling gear to the racks. Where it was only a short distance between caves or pools, we rode in our wetsuit and booties.
Day 1 - Top end and West Coast
First stop: The annual Alofi cultural festival and market. Local food includes seafood, root vegetables (taro, cassava, yams and kumara), topical fruit, wild honey and vanilla. The only endemic land animal is the Uga (coconut crab), which is a delicacy.
Next stop: Avaiki Cave in Makefu. The tide was too high to snorkel or even access the larger cave, so we decided to come back another day. We learned how important the tides are: too high you get washed away, too low you are damaging the corals.
Matapa Chasm is a sheltered pool accessible via an easy track through the rainforest. Our first snorkel!
The Talava Arches were the furthest to the north we managed to ride that day. The first part of the access is easy through dense rainforest, then turns into a scramble through a slippery cave. We definitely needed the ropes to hold on!
Day 2 - South Coast
Because it was Sunday and I had such fond memories of the singing in churches of the Cook Islands, we started the day by attending a morning service in Avatele. Church service here is a family and community gathering, kids running around, different people speaking (in Niuean, so we didn't understand anything) and amazing music. Accompanied by a boom box or just acapella the harmonies were beautifull and moving!
The centre of the island is covered in plantations and native forest. The most common plants we saw were taro, pawpaw, bananas and coconut. Another prominent tree is the Noni (Morinda citrifolia), also known as starvation fruit, cheese fruit or vomit fruit. Apparently it smells like blue cheese and tastes bitter and acidic. It is used in traditional medicine and usually fermented before eating. We didn't try it!
Anapala Chasm is another freshwater pool accessed via a steep set of stairs. The chasm is so narrow that almost no light penetrates the water. Lucky I had a waterproof flashlight. The underwater stalactites and curtains are beautiful.
Togo Chasm is on the east coast, which is rough and wild. The rocks are razor sharp and the waves are pounding the shoreline. No swimming here! The walk to Togo Chasm is on a roped narrow track of concrete that was poured over the porous rock. A bit of a balancing act! The final challenge was a steep ladder into a small canyon with what must be the only soft sand on the island.
On the way back we rode on a bush track through beautiful rainforest and more plantations. There are lots of wild chickens, cats, dogs and pigs on the island.
Avatele Beach is one of the very few beaches in Niue, but instead of sand it's crushed coral.
Day 3 - Short mountain bike ride in the morning, snorkelling boat trip in the afternoon
The snorkelling boat was launched via crane from Alofi boat ramp. Niue has a fringing reef that is 30 to 150 metres wide with many tidal pools. The outer reef drops sharply into deep water, featuring underwater caves, chasms, and canyons. At first, snorkelling outside the reef is a bit daunting because the water is very blue, very deep and seemingly very empty (except for big pelagic species). We saw many curious Katuali (Laticauda schistorhyncha), which is Niue's endemic flat-tail sea snake, as well as a green turtle, a white-tipped reef shark and lots of small reef fish.
Day 4 - Caves and Sea Tracks around Alofi
The coast around Alofi has many sea tracks, tidal pools and caves. Access is usually via well maintained steps. Some tracks even have picnic tables, showers and toilets. Where there is a gap in the reef, the locals store their vakas or outrigger canoes on these sea tracks.
We visited eight sea tracks, look-outs and caves and snorkelled four times.
Ancient burial cave
The whale season started the week we were there. Humpback whales migrate to the island's deep, clear coastal waters to mate, give birth, and nurse their calves. The first two days, none were spotted, then we started to see them regularly from shore.
Day 5 - Break in the morning and snorkelling with whales in the afternoon
Rainy and miserable day, so we had a lazy morning. In the afternoon we had a whale snorkelling trip booked. Amazingly, they let all six of us sit on the back of the boat while driving to Avatele. The snorkelling with humpback whales is well regulated with strict rules and limited numbers. Even though the sea was choppy and the water murky, it was an awesome experience! Fascinating to see how the whales just "hang out" and relax just under the water surface until they have to come up for another breath!
Day 6 - Back to the north coast at low tide
Most of the caves and pools in the north of the island have to be accessed at low tide. We got up early and pedalled non-stop back to Avaiki Cave. What an amazing spot!
Palaha Cave is a gigantic double-layered cave with lots of stalagmites and stalactites. It has a window opening to the reef. Kirsten can be seen climbing down the rocks to the left of the opening.
Hio Beach is a great spot for snorkelling and easy to get in.
Limu Pools is the most popular swimming spot on the island, but it was still not crowded. As with the other caves, a lot of freshwater is pouring out of the rocks, which forms a halocline where the top 10 cm of water is shimmering and blurry and the saltwater underneath is crystal clear.
Matavai Resort provided lots of entertainment and the food was fantastic. Below some random photos.
How to open coconuts:
Dance lessons:
All about the Uga (coconut crab).
Yoga classes (the resident cat is participating).
Local music and dance:
My favourite dish was Ota (raw fresh fish, citrus juice and coconut cream). The chips are taro.
Kirsten's favourite: catch of the day with greens and potato waffles.
Hand-drawn weather map at the airport:
Airport waiting area:
What a hidden tropical paradise!
